Lolita fashion
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3449/200651717164823160067c9mq0.jpg【Lolita的起源】
Lolita源自俄裔美籍著名作家纳博可夫 (Vladimir Nabokov) 于1955年出版的小说《Lolita》,后被史丹利寇比力克(Stanley Kubrick) 改编成同名电影《一树梨花压海棠》,描述一位中年教授与12岁少女的纠缠情欲关系,女主角名叫Lolita。自此,日本人将‘Lolita’成为天真可爱少女的代名词,把14岁以下的女孩称为‘Lolita代’,简称为‘Loli’。1997年,电影《Lolita》再被重拍,在日本大受欢迎,原宿街头开始兴起宫廷娃娃look的时装潮流。
【什么是lolita?】
也许lolita这个名字的来自Vladimir Nabokov写的《lolita》这本书。lolita包含的意思是“不纯洁的孩子”。书讲的是一个中年男人和一个叫lolita只有12岁的小女孩有了性关系。所以“Lolita综合症”就是指恋童癖。
但是这个词的英文意思和日语里这个单词的意思有很大差异。日语的lolita服饰是指以歌特和古装为基础的服饰。这种服饰是 以古老的洋娃娃那种镶蕾丝的花边的裙子为基础,但又不仅仅是这样。还有一个特点是裙子特别短,大概是及膝的地方。
Lolita的样式大概有以下几种:
Gothic Lolita(歌特lolota):Gothic和Lolita的完美结合。黑白两色,及膝的蕾丝裙子和大量的花边。
Classic Lolita(古典lolita):绒毛的样式,明亮的颜色和大量的装饰,花边是它的特点。
Elegant Gothic Lolita(雅致歌特lolita):传统古典的样式,非常接近Gothic Lolita,有点吸血鬼的感觉。
Elegant Gothic Aristocrat(雅致歌特贵族)男装的样式,有长裙或裤子,以及领尖定有纽扣的衬衣或外套。
当然这只是比较大的分类,真正的并不局限与与此,有很多类型都是几者兼备。还有一种lolita是很恐怖的,象是在白色的衣服上沾满血,绷带,头骨等。也有一些贵族化的设计如十字架和皇冠。
【谁引起这服饰的潮流?】
漫画家楠本まき是让lolita服饰流行的最大功臣。她在80年代创作的《KISSxxxx》是讲述一个摇滚乐团的漫画。乐团中一个成员的女朋友老是穿得象个洋娃娃。她很可爱并且照顾这个乐队的演出。这也算是为什么现在你呢感在LIVE上看见很读lolita装扮的女孩的原因之一吧!(笑~这是一段没多少人知道的历史哦~~~看到这里和我一样想去找这个作者的漫画的人有关不少吧!?此外,PENICILLIN也有一首歌的名字是《KISSxxxx》,有关也是从这里来的吧?笑~)
这此之后,很多视觉系艺人都有他们自己的风格,比如MANA(前MALICE MIZER),他的风格就是"Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL)和"Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA)。他也有自己的服装品牌 Moi-meme-Moitie。他的风格是来自他喜爱的恐怖电影,吸血鬼电影。尽管这样,他也没有创造gothic lolita服饰。
近来在香港也引入了这种文化。可是在香港会穿的人不算多,因为这种衣著颇为夸张,而且价钱很贵,一套由四百港元至三千港元不等,很少人舍得买呢!不过就算不多人穿,你偶然走在旺角,铜锣湾那一带人气热点,也会看见一两个身穿Lolita的女孩经过。相反,在日本穿Lolita就普遍得多了,你可以找到很多关於 Lolita 的日本杂志,而且有一部由深田恭子主演的电 影”下妻物语”,片中深田恭子一共穿了39款Lolita套装!拍完此片后她也喜欢了这种美丽 的衣著文化了。
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Lolita可细分为几种不同的种类,是以所表达的感觉、心情、外表和打扮来分类,而并不是单纯用颜色或布料区分。并且经过多年变化,分类太多不能尽录。
【Lolita 绝不等於 Cosplay!】
Gothic & Lolita 是一种服装风格, Cosplay 是一种角色扮演活动,千万不可混淆。其实,出现这种误解,是因为很多漫画角色穿著 Gothic & Lolita 服饰,像《库洛魔法使》的木之本樱、《Chobits》的芝等,她们都是很受欢迎的角色,导致有人因而把 Gothic & Lolita 与 Cosplay 混为一谈。
【高龄 Lolita 】
在日本,Lolita除了有少女拥趸外,更有不少成熟女性支持。日本的Loli派妈咪较常穿「Pink House」这牌子。「Pink House」 fashion 源自一部加拿大电影《Anne of Green Gables》,但近年「Pink House」已经日本化,失去原本的田园优雅风格。
【Lolita的心理 】
Lolita不单是一种服饰潮流,更是年青人表达情感需要的方式,或是弥补自信不足的自我保护武装。一如发展心理学家艾力逊指出,年青人正处於「自我认识与迷乱」的阶段,他们往往拥有童真与梦想,有摆脱现实规限的渴求,需要寻找自我,因此以不羁和野性挑战传统,期望得到别人关注、了解、认同和真正接纳。
【玩Lolita专业招数 】
1. 防走光淑女坐姿 - 约埋成班人出来玩Loli,当然要坐低交流下,但在人多的地方,被迫坐地时,就要学习优雅的密实坐姿!
2. 纸袋装法宝 - 要随身带住所有玩Loli的服饰和配件,又无助手,最紧要带个方便易拎的纸袋,可以随时放在地上,减轻负担。
3. 最Pro服装要素 - 裙子下摆一定不能过膝,袜子长度一定要及膝! +Gothic Lolita+Gothic Lolita以黑白色为主,与Sweet Love Lolita相比少了点童真,多了弥漫死亡气息的恐怖与优雅。穿?者多涂上黑色指甲油和十字架等银饰。代表品牌有Moi-meme-moitie。
感觉:揉合了优雅
颜色:以黑白为主色所呈现的死亡气息
设计:以蔷薇、十字架、蕾丝和缎带所缀饰的欧式华服
化妆:以浓妆为主,阴暗为主
Gothic Lolita的始祖,由Mana Sana提出的Elegant Gothic Lolita(EGL)和Elegant Gothic Aristocrat(EGA):EGL是指优雅的歌德式,集天使与恶魔的感觉於一身,设计比Gothic Lolita更为优雅华丽 ;EGA则是一个中性打扮的Gothic服装,像贵族般的高贵感觉
Gothic Lolita: Gothic lolita is the most common and most popular in the gothic subcategory of lolita fashion. Clothes are black and white in colour typically but the term may encompass blackxdark blue (Moitie) or black and red.
Kurololi (black lolitas): Kurololi is gothic lolita but with a strict blackxblack colour scheme
Gurololi (gruesome lolitas): Gurololi means gruesome or horrible lolita. This style is often more of a costume and requires the wearer to dress with gore - for example bandages, fake blood, eyepatches etc.
Makeup is usually dark in color, in contrast with other Lolita genre where light makeup is preferred. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is usually seen along with black eyeliner Sweet Lolitahttp://img401.imageshack.us/img401/541/wr17cx6c2bd5ve4.jpg
+Sweet Lolita+(并不是Sweet Love Lolita)
Lolita意指诱人少女,而Sweet Lolita更加入了甜美可爱的意思。以粉色为主,再用上大量的Lace,造出来的皱折裙,可表现出可爱洋娃娃的形象。代表品牌有Baby the Stars Shine Bright,而《下妻物语》深田恭子所穿的衣服,正是由该牌赞助。
感觉:表达出小女孩的纯真甜美、天真无邪和洋娃娃般的可爱,也代表了温馨亲切的少女味道
颜色:主要是粉色系列,如粉红、白、粉蓝、米黄、红等,但也有黑、灰和粉紫的
剪裁:连身裙多是高腰的圆台裙,纱裙撑起来的位置也比Classic较高
设计:常用蕾丝、丝带和蝴蝶结作装饰;布上有时也有一些可爱的图案,如琴谱、草苺、碎花…
化妆:彩妆、淡妆为主
Black Lolita~Sweet Lolita中的分支!!!
很多人初初对lolita认识不深时,很容易误把全黑/黑白色的lolita当作了Gothic lolita。但其实lolita的种类并不是以颜色/布料来分辨的,所以Sweet lolita和Classic lolita也可以是黑色的,当然Gothic Lolita也可以是白色的,使用花布的也不一定是Classic Lolita。Black Lolita是Sweet lolita内的一支,虽然使用黑色/黑白色的布料,但设计是属於Sweet系的,化妆也以淡妆为主并配衬可爱的饰物,带出Sweet系中亲切甜美的感觉 。
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http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5851/wr17wy6c668cml8.jpg Classical Lolitahttp://img57.imageshack.us/img57/275/20061131746574346e76eett4.jpghttp://img57.imageshack.us/img57/8875/2005919123158801516e93dbv2.jpg
+Classic Lolita+(又可称为Classical Lolita)
Classic Lolita以简单,(有点像小时候穿的小洋装)少Lace而多cutting为主,裙身多荷叶折,透过碎花和粉色表现出清雅品味,而黑色及白色多是单独出场。如爱公主打扮,但又害羞,怕过分出众,可从Classic Lolita开始入手。
感觉:表达出高贵优雅、成熟大方的感觉,像是一个充满气质的少女贵族
亦是唯一一个能够保留洛可可和维多利亚精髓的Lolita
颜色:比较广泛,主要有能具贵族气息的酒红色和香槟色,还有白色、米黄色、
紫色、黑色、粉红色、蓝色、墨绿色、啡色等等
剪裁:最能保留传统欧式宫廷装的要素,十分注重整体线条和修腰的效果,较有层次感
连身裙主要以下散式伞裙为主,半裁裙则多是高腰的款式
设计:通常荷叶边作点缀,後方腰部多有束绳设计,并可在底层衬上一条蛋糕裙
布料则多用净色或玫瑰、白合等的花布
化妆:淡妆为主
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/9198/o7m81l6ec339fc9.jpghttp://img57.imageshack.us/img57/619/o7mseg6f5298mi8.jpg Other Lolita StylesCountry Lolita
+Country Lolita+(又名Kaneko Lolita,很少人认识并开始没落,常给人误以为是Classic)
感觉:充满清新的田园风和温暖的乡村气息,表达出邻家女孩朴素、亲切的感觉
颜色:偏向沉实朴素
剪裁:长裙为主
设计:少使用蕾丝、丝带等装饰,但布料上有会有印花图案
化妆:淡妆
Wa Lolita
Wa Lolita (or Waloli) is the combination of traditional Japanese clothing and Lolita fashion and usually consists of yukata (sometimes kimono) and a skirt or the bottom half of the garment is altered to mimic the typical lolita style. The name originates from the reference to Japan as "The Land of Wa" (harmony).
Qi Lolita
Qi Lolita, pronounced "chee-loli", is similar to Wa Lolita and is a combination of Lolita style and traditional Chinese clothing, such as the qipao.
Erotic Lolita
Erotic Lolita (or Erololi) is erotic in a fetishistic sense, rather than in the revealing of skin. Erololi can use shorter skirts than other Lolita styles but is often more modest than a great deal of contemporary fashions. Erololi is erotic in the conservative Victorian sense, as its main components are often undergarments worn to be seen, such as corsets, bloomers, petticoats and stockings.
An erololi brand is Antique Beast.
Ouji
The male counterpart to Lolita fashion inspired by what was worn by Victorian schoolboys featuring knickerbockers, masculine blouses and shirts, trousers and knee socks. Sometimes it overlaps with Dandy style
Kodona
Kodona (from "kodomo otona", literally "child-adult") is a Western term that was originally featured in the Gothic & Lolita Bible for clothing that would usually be described as Ouji, though it is not used in Japan
Aristocrat
Aristocrat (or Madam when referring to the feminine version of the fashion) is a Japanese fashion that is inspired by what is thought to be worn by European Middle Class and above status persons in the Middle Ages and by fashion worn by the upper class in the 19th Century. The fashion includes long sleeve blouses and shirts, long skirts, corsetry, pants and dresses that are styled similarly for men and women, since it is centered on androgyny and elegance. The fashion is usually seen as a mature version of Lolita and is usually worn by people in their twenties and beyond. Make-up, when worn with the fashion, is on the darker side, may be heavy and can be worn by both genders.
It is often mislabeled as Elegant Gothic Aristocrat, which is a brand label created by Mana for one of the lines in his Lolita and Aristocrat fashion brand Moi-même-Moitié. While never used in Japan to describe Aristocrat style as a whole, it is often mistakenly used in Western Lolita culture.
Common aristocrat brands are Atelier Boz and Moi-même-Moitié.
Dandy
Dandy is the western term for masculine Aristocrat and mature Ouji fashions, mostly inspired by what European upper class men wore in the 19th century. Its most outstanding feature is the use of Frock coats and the jabot (neck-ruffles).
Punk Lolita
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Punk Lolita (or Lolita Punk) combines punk fashion elements to the Lolita fashion. Pieces that are usually found in punk clothing, such as tattered fabric, plaids, safety pins and chains, screen-printed fabrics, short hair, etc are incorporated into lolita. A lot of punk clothing shown in The Gothic and Lolita Bible is not lolita at all, but merely a complimentary style. Many of the Japanese punk brands take influence from London's famous Camden Town Markets and similar clothing can be found here at less cost. Punk Lolita is also tied to Vivienne Westwood, who, though not a lolita designer, has items and collections with a lolita feel, especially in her Japanese collections. Common Punk Lolita brands are A Lidel, Putumayo, h. NAOTO and Na+H. 谢谢你的分享.......
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